What We’ve Learned From Nearly 10 Years of Tracking Forest Fibre Risk

A decade ago, fashion’s sourcing conversations rarely involved questions about endangered forests.

Man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs) like viscose and rayon were promoted as sustainable — after all, they came from trees, not oil. But behind the softness of these materials was a hard truth: without transparency, "renewable" can still mean irreplaceable loss. Some fabrics were being made from trees in the world’s most endangered, climate-critical, and biodiverse forests — including ancient boreal landscapes and tropical rainforests. And nobody really knew.

In 2016, after months of research and work, Canopy launched the Hot Button Report — not to call out bad actors, but to bring clarity to a supply chain that had long operated in the shadows. It began with just 10 producers. Today, it tracks performance across nearly the entire global MMCF sector, providing public, third-party–informed insights on forest sourcing risk, traceability, and investment in Next Generation fibre innovation.

After 10 years of data, discussion, and determination, here’s what we’ve learned:

1. Visibility unlocks action.

When brands can see the difference between fibre producers, they have the information to act. The simple shirt rating system — Red to Dark Green — has become a shared language in supplier evaluations and procurement policies. And it’s had an impact: more than 70% of assessed producers are now rated Green or Dark Green, up from zero in 2016.

2. Progress scales with participation.

From audits to innovation investment, many producers are now benchmarking themselves against Hot Button criteria. With over 35 third-party CanopyStyle Audits completed and published, transparency has moved from exception to expectation. And it’s not just brands driving this — producers want their leadership recognized, and customers want certainty.

3. Clear benchmarks shift expectations.

Before the Hot Button Report, there was no common yardstick for what responsible MMCF sourcing looked like. By creating a shared framework — one that evaluates fibre producers on forest sourcing, transparency, and innovation — the report has helped align expectations across brands, producers, and even investors. It doesn’t dictate solutions, but it does help define what good looks like — and that clarity is what drives action.

4. Next Gen is gaining ground.

In 2016, no producer had commercial-scale Next Gen fibre lines. Today, 12 do — and many more are in development. The sector has begun to shift from extractive to circular, showing that what once seemed radical is now reaching the factory floor.

5. The work isn’t over.

Global MMCF production continues to grow. Some of the biggest expansions are from producers still rated Red, and they represent 42% of global production volume. And while traceability has improved, sourcing origin at the forest level remains a gap. Real transformation means closing those gaps — before they widen.

The Hot Button Report doesn’t claim to have all the answers. But it shows that shared frameworks, transparent data, and collaborative pressure can drive real, measurable progress. As we come off the release of the 10th Edition Hot Button Report, that’s the signal we want to send: that change is not only possible — it’s already happening. And it’s worth doubling down on.

Because in a world facing biodiversity loss and climate instability, better fibre choices aren’t just a sourcing upgrade. They’re part of how we help keep forests — and our future — standing.